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The cheapest ADU you can build, and the most constrained. Two things decide whether a conversion stays in the $60,000 to $90,000 tier or lands in the $120,000 to $175,000 one, and neither of them is the kitchen.
A garage conversion buys you a shell that already exists, which is why this site publishes it at $60,000 to $130,000 against $120,000 to $220,000 for even a small detached unit. What you cannot buy back is the footprint, the ceiling height or where the windows can go. The unit will always be the shape of the garage. The budget risk sits in two places that are invisible until someone looks: what the slab is actually like under the paint, and whether the electrical service can carry a second dwelling at all.
Garage slabs are frequently poured thinner than a habitable floor, sloped to the door for drainage, and without a vapour barrier underneath. A slope you can barely see across 20 feet is three or four inches of level to make up before flooring can go down. Cracking may be cosmetic or may be movement. Replacing the slab is the difference between the standard tier and the extensive one, and nobody can tell you which you have from the driveway — which is why this calculator asks.
A garage is usually served by an extension of the house circuits. A dwelling needs its own capacity, and if the unit is to be rented independently it needs its own meter. On an older Reno or Sparks house the existing panel often has neither the capacity nor the physical spaces, so a service upgrade goes in before anything else. Check the panel before you commit to a conversion rather than a build — it is a ten-minute look and it moves the budget by five figures.
A garage was built to keep rain off a car, not to hold heat at a 17 degree Fahrenheit winter design temperature. Walls, ceiling and often the slab edge all need insulating, the door opening has to be framed and infilled properly rather than boarded, and the unit needs real heating and cooling. This is unglamorous work that adds no visible value and is not optional — and it is the most common thing missing from a conversion quote that looks too cheap.
This calculator works from the 2026 cost figures published on this site for Reno. What it cannot see is your soil, your slope, how far your utility connections actually run, or what your lot and your HOA will allow. We will come out, walk the property and give you a written scope with no pressure attached.
Book a free consultationThe figures published on this site put a basic conversion with utilities nearby at $60,000 to $90,000, a standard conversion with a full kitchen and bath at $85,000 to $130,000, and an extensive one needing structural upgrades at $120,000 to $175,000 and up. This calculator builds a number from your slab, your panel, your utility distance and your layout, then tells you which of those three tiers it lands in — and says so plainly when it lands outside them.
Yes, and it is worth thinking about properly before you start. You lose covered parking, and you usually lose the storage, the utility sink and wherever the water heater lives. Reno's ordinance also requires at least one off-street parking space, so the space the car used has to go somewhere. For many properties that is a straightforward driveway pad; on a narrow lot it is a real constraint. Price the parking space as part of the conversion, not as an afterthought.
Yes, and the conversion itself is often easier because there is no shared wall to work around. What changes is everything else: sewer, water, gas and power all have to be trenched from the house rather than extended a few feet, and the further away it sits the larger that line becomes. A detached garage at the back of a deep lot can move a conversion out of the basic tier on utility distance alone, which is why this calculator asks about it separately.
Usually, but check before you plan. Many garages have adequate height as built, but the finished floor rises when insulation and a proper subfloor go over the slab, and the ceiling drops if insulation and drywall go under the joists. If the garage started marginal, that combination can take it below the minimum for a habitable room. It is measurable in five minutes and it is much better known now than after demolition.
As a rental, usually a little less — the footprint, ceiling height and window placement are all inherited, and a converted garage rarely feels like a purpose-built home. As an investment it frequently does better anyway, because it costs roughly half as much to create. The comparison worth running is not which unit is nicer but which one produces a better return on what it cost, and on most Reno lots with a sound slab and a capable panel the conversion wins that comparison comfortably.
Yes. Converting a garage to habitable space is a change of use and it needs a permit regardless of how little construction is involved. Expect plan review, and expect the inspector to be interested in egress, in insulation, in smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, and in the electrical service. Confirm requirements with the City of Reno or Washoe County depending on which covers your parcel — they are not the same department and they do not have the same fee schedule.
Planning the whole project? Start at the Reno ADU calculator hub, or read more about our garage conversion service.